Measuring for custom socks.

Shaping a sock to fit someone, is very much defined by specific measurements in order to perfectly tailor the perfectly fitted sock.

Measure A---- ankle                                                                               

Measure B ----leg

Measure C---- knee

Measure D--- foot length

Measure E----heel length

Measure F--- leg length

Measure G----calf length

Measure H--- knee length

You need to measure around the widest part of the foot.

You need to measure around the widest part of the calf. 

Hints for knitting your socks.

The measurement taken at “A” is usually the measurement that, in combination with your gauge, will determine the number of stitches you will cast on for a normal length pair of socks.

For example, take the measurement “A” in inches, and multiply it by your stitch gauge, and you will have the number of stitches you should cast on to begin your sock.

Make two gauge swatches when determining your cast on. Always use the preferred sock yarn and suggested needle size. Do a swatch of about 20 stitches and about 20 rows in stockinette stitch, and take a gauge measurement.

The second swatch is done the same way, but knit in the pattern stitch of the sock top or leg.

To take this measurement, measure the gauge at rest, then take a gauge measurement with it stretched to its maximum. The gauge used is figured from the average of these two gauge measurements. Compare the two, and go for the gauge that will be snug around your foot.

You want your socks to stretch some on the feet, to adjust for the “stretch” factor. The length of the leg of a sock for short socks is “F”, and this usually averages around 6 inches. Use a good stretchy pattern stitch for this.

If you are using a lace or more flat knit piece, like intarsia or Fair Isle, be sure and work an inch or more of a stretchy ribbing in the cuff to help keep the sock up.

If your sock top extends above the leg into the area where the calf begins to enlarge, use your best stretchy cuff ribbing here. There are tons of great decorative ribbings to explore!

Be sure and knit a heel flap, measurement “E”, that is plenty long enough. Short heel flaps are the major cause of socks that constantly work down into your shoe or boot. A well-fitting heel flap that is plenty long enough will help keep your sock where it belongs!

When decreasing the gusset, you can decrease more quickly, for long thin feet, and decrease slowly down to the smaller size for wide thick feet.

When doing your toes, notice if the wearer’s toes are “blocky” or “pointy”.That way you can determine how many stitches to decrease down to before closing your toe. Decrease down to a smaller number of stitches for a pointy toe, and for a larger number of stitches for a more “blocky” toe.

A good average for most feet, is to knit the length of the foot, measurement “D”, less 2 ½ inches for the toe. For example, if the length of the foot is 10 inches, knit the foot length to 7 ½ inches, then begin your toe. Remember, the sock should fit snug!

Other options for people with long toes is to knit your sock to measurement “D”, minus 3 inches and knit your toe decreases slowly decreasing. If they have short toes, knit your sock to measurement “D” minus 2 inches and decrease your toe more quickly.

For knee socks, you will knit the length of the leg as measured by “H”. Part of the “H” measurement will be an inch or so of ribbing at the top of the knee sock.

The number of stitches you cast on from measurement “C” will be determined in the same way as when you cast on for shorter socks using measurement “A”. Many times, these will be the same!

From that point, you will increase a gusset area at the middle back of the sock to the thickest or middle part of the calf, where you will then mirror by decreasing in the same areas where you previously increasing in the gusset area until you get to the bottom of the calf.

Decrease to the original Cast On stitch count, and will decrease more if this part of the leg is particularly thin. Then you will knit straight on as a regular sock.

Plan your gusset with paired increases then paired decreases on either side of a marked centre stitch that runs at the very back of the sock. This gusset area can be accommodated for many patterns and textured stitches and when paired nicely, is attractive itself.

You can use a stretchy knit along yarn in your heels and toes, such as woolly nylon. You can make the soles of your socks extra warm and cushy by using the same heel stitch that is used in the heel flap, but knitted in the round.